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Central Vermont - New Routes

Marshfield Ledge - Left Side

Captain Planet 5.11d 300'+
Begin by climbing the Unfinished Project to the left of Black Streak; the pitch has now been completed.
P.1 The Zebra Slab: Climb the seemingly endless, difficult face, passing bolts, to a two-bolt anchor below a huge, arching overlap. 5.11a 150’
P.2 The White Ceiling: Power straight up through a break in the arch, passing a bolt (crux) to easier ground above. Continue up the slab above to a comfortable belay ledge. 5.11d
P.3 Step right and climb a crack to a two bolt belay. 5.8
P.4 Finish up Falcon’s Fury. 5.9
To descend, make four rappels down the route with a single 60M rope. At the first pitch belay, under the White Ceiling, rappel to the top of Black Streak and make a final rappel to the ground.
FA Nate Vince, Hope Chipman, Joe Consavage. Aug 2013

 
Captain Planet


Conundrum 5.8 200'
About 50 feet left of Requiem for a Dream. Follow flakes and corners finding reasonable gear placements along the way. High on the pitch, trend right to finish at the Requiem anchor. FA Randy Garcia, John Sykes, Mike Lee, Oct 2012

Marshfield Ledge - High Grade Wall

Vounilla 5.13 b/c 90'  sport
The crack and feature system on the far left end of the High Grade wall. Climb a short slab to a ledge and belay bolt. Continue past a couple large blocks (a little loose), then back-clean the first bolt after clipping the second. Use some oppositional trickery to get off the ground, then move through a box and around the corner into the main line of weakness. Manage a double fall-line feature by stemming and trickery, climbing smooth as “vuonilla”. Next, tackle powerful pinches slopers through the crux, then hang on for more steep climbing to a sinker jug at the chains. Awesome position and a truly unique pitch in New England. FA David Vuono aided the route and originally named it "Crossing the Boundary". FFA Tim Heaghney, Nov 11, 2014.