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Mid Vermont - New Routes

Deer Leap - Lower Tier

The Black Wonton 5.11c/d
The short finger and hand crack just left of the Bag of Tricks offwidth. Start on a short slab left of the cave and right of The Easy Way. Climb the crack until it angles up and left to The Easy Way anchor. FA Chris Magness, Michael Sturgeon, May 8, 2012

Brandon Gap - Finger Rock
Nick Goldsmith has updated the fixed protection on several routes on Finger Rock. The pin on the West Face route had fallen out and was replaced by a new bolt. Birds of Prey, established by Goldsmith, also saw the retro-addition of bolts to bring the protection rating down from X to PG. Goldsmith: "You still need micro wires, and it is still exciting, but it is decently protected now and hopefully it will get climbed... a super cool route that climbs bigger than it is."
Birds of Prey is not correctly described in the book. The climb is on the east face of the Crows Nest, not Finger Rock. There is a notch between the two spires that is on the same level as the start to the West Face route. When you step through that notch you are roughly 25' above the talus on the east side. Birds of Prey steps out around a sharp corner to a bolt making a wild move onto the east face of the Crows Nest about halfway up the spire. The climb moves left past a bolt to a thin seam protected by micro wires and up to the summit chains. Doing the unprotected start from the bottom of the talus pit is reported to be 5.10 X.