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Northwest Vermont - New Routes

Upper West Bolton - South End
Phantom Ticks 5.10b 35'  sport
Begin a few feet right of Trespassing and just left of the chain anchor. Step over the crack and climb up unusual, swirly rock, passing interesting pockets, pinches, flakes, and four bolts. At the last bolt make a long, but secure run-out on good holds to an anchor with shuts. FA Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, July 13, 2014.


Upper West Bolton - Upper Tier
Take Back Crack 5.9 R/X 80'
The right-facing crack/corner in black rock a few feet to the right of Take Vermont from Behind. Climb the crack, being careful of loose rock, until the angle eases. Continue up and right on easier ground with poor protection, to the anchor on BungasanaACB Nathan Vince, Jul. 14, 2015.


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 Nate Vince on Take Back Crack


Travis Peckham on the FA of Bungasana
Bungasana 5.11b 65'  sport
Begin on light-colored rock about 30' right of Take Vermont from Behind and just right of a wide swath of dark brown rock. Make a tricky boulder problem to get off the ground (clip the first bolt short), then continue up more easily to a jug and small undercling flake. Make a series of challenging moves to the right, then up to a sloping shelf. Hang on up the blunt arete and pull a final crux on hidden holds. Work back left to an anchor under the big roof. FA Travis Pecham, Seth Maciejowski, Apr. 4, 2013.
Bungissima 5.11b 85'  sport  
The direct finish to Bungasana pulls jugs out the big-assed roof above the anchor. Clip the anchor at the top of Bungasana with a very long sling, then climb right to an easy arete and clip a bolt at a jug. Power up the steep face above making powerful moves on big holds, passing two more bolts to a chain anchor at the top of the cliff. This direct finish is probably not harder than Bunagasa, given the no-hands rest under the roof, but the wild finish makes for a better route. FA Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, Derrek Anderson May 5, 2013.

The Sidewalk 5.8 R
A fun tour of the Upper Tier with a wild traverse under the huge roof. 
P.1 Climb the first pitch of Dr. Dias until it is possible to traverse right to the low anchor on Featherweight Champion. 5.7 70'
P.2 Traverse right under the huge roof to the belay at the anchor on Mal Bouche. 5.7 R 30'
P.3 Continue traversing right to Ledangier, then continue up to the top of the cliff. 5.8 R. 80'
FA Hope Chipman, Nate Vince, Jul. 14, 2015.

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 Hope Chipman on the FA of The Sidewalk


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 Ryan Brink on the 2nd ascent of Happy Puppet
Mal Bouche: Happy Puppet Variation 5.8+ 65'
P.1 Climb the first pitch of Mal Bouche. P.2 Traverse 20 feet right from the mid-anchor until a stance at the shrubby ledge. Fun face climbing through left-facing flakes leads to good rock with technical moves that lead to a shared anchor with Mal Bouche. FA Greg Kuchyt, Ryan Brink, Emma Millar, Janika Chartrand, Aug. 29, 2014


Upper West Bolton - Booty Wall / Full Circle

Birtha's Big Booty 5.8 25'
The hanging chimney offwidth 35' right of Booty TrapClimb a dirty slab to a stance, then squeeze out over the void to the end of the chimney. Drop out of the flare and top out with good feet on an arete to the right. Stays dry in light rain.  Rack a #4 and a #6 Camalot. FA Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark, Oct. 19, 2014

Booty Fingers 5.11b 25' sport

A very short sport climb on the right side of the Booty Wall. Begin at the lowest point of the slab, just left of a tree. Gaston and high-step onto the face to good edges and some hard moves past pockets. Finish up the arete on Birtha's Big Booty. 2 bolts. FA Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver, Oct. 25, 2014.


A Fierce Little Crack in the Woods 5.9+ 25'
Climb parallel left leaning finger cracks 15' left of Full Circle. Climb the cracks, stemming off a ramp on the left and small feet on the right. Exit is still somewhat dirty and could use a bit of cleaning. Protect with small gear.  
FA Mike Bauman weeded and protected up 20' of the crack onsight. Bauman fell trying to make the final move and then hiked around to the top and removed a dead tree that was blocking the exit move. Steve Charest made a second attempt and sent the crack. Steve Charest, Andrea Charest, Mike Bauman, Sep. 12, 2012 
 Mike Bauman on A Fierce Little Crack...



The East Face
Beginner's Luck 5.8 55' sport
Start at a line of glue-in bolts about 50' left of Fresh MeatMake a big move on good crimps to get off the ground and gain a nice jug. After the second bolt make a few committing moves to a good hold, then traverse up and right on a big rail. Make a tricky mantle and wander up an unusual slabby face on excellent rock to a huge sloping belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor. FA Kristofer Fiore, Max Forbes, Luke Barnes, May 22, 2015

Doug the Subway Fugitive 5.10d 65' sport

Start in the center of the huge sloping ledge reached by climbing Beginner's Luck, by traversing left from the top of Fresh Meat or Paradox, or by continuing up above the anchor on Rented Mule. Climb up relatively low-angled rock to a stance below a steep bulge. Make fun, powerful moves through the bulge and gain a stance with a good rest. Continue up the excellent vertical face above tackling a few more cruxes en route. FA Kristofer Fiore, Max Forbes, Luke Barnes May 22, 2015



Kristofer Fiore on Doug the Subway Fugitive
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Kristofer Fiore on Rancid Meat (5.10c)



Rancid Meat 5.10c 65' sport

Start at a bolted anchor 25' left of the anchors to Fresh Meat.  From big quartz jugs, use delicate footwork to move up and right to a high first bolt at a good clipping stance. Bite down on crimps through the overhang making a few challenging more moves to a good stance below the crux. Make a powerful deadpoint and crank up to better holds above. Trend left to the arete and enjoy sweet exposure and cool holds on 5.8 terrain up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. FA Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Russel Frisch Jun. 11, 2015. The name was inspired not by Fresh Meat but by the fact that the FA party felt like rancid meat hanging on ropes getting eaten alive for 11 hours. The Fresh Meat link was just bonus. 

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Travis Peckham on the FA of
 Rented Mule
Rented Mule 5.10c 60'  sport
Begin at the base of a large corner 20' left of Fresh Meat. Climb the corner for a few moves, then move onto the left wall, making powerful moves to gain a shelf about halfway up the route. Continue up the face above, using interesting quartz grooves, horizontal cracks and the arete, to reach a ring bolt anchor on a comfortable belay ledgeFA Travis Peckham, Flynn Peckham, Reed Hanson, Eric Seaton, Aug. 19, 2014

Peachy Canoodle 5.9 55' sport
Begin 15' left of Stone Staircase. Climb a slab to a stance behind a tree. Follow bolts up the steepening face above using a interesting series of hidden edges and pockets. Surmount a bulge on good holds to a 2-bolt anchor. FA Kristofer Fiore, Russell Frisch, Apr. 14, 2015


Upper West Bolton - North End
Ass Index 5.11a 50'  sport
Start on the Once-ler ledge. Climb the initial mossy ramp / corner of Donkey Index to the tree-covered ledge. Move right along the ledge about 15' to a vertical bolted face. Make a powerful, bouldery start and stab a hidden pocket on the left. Move up to jugs, then continue up the technical, pocketed face above. FA Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, Jun. 20, 2012.

"The Roots" 5.9 PG 90'
Climb Polypody to the Once-ler ledge, then walk right to the base of the major crack and corner system. Climb the corner and the crack on the left wall, with increasing difficulty, then pull over large chock stones into a huge chimney. Walk deep inside the chimney and locate a thin crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to the ledge above The Rose. ACB Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, early summer 2012. This climb is pretty obvious and has very likely seen prior ascents. 

Birthday Crack 5.9
June Mendell climbed the chimney at the right end of the East Face up to fern covered ledges and continued up the short, splitter hand crack above. Start a few feet right of The Pansy. The route finished up the slabs above to the top of the cliff. FA June Mendell, Jeff Stuart, 2006.

Left of The Rose is a short but aesthetic hand crack. June Mendell climbed this to the ledge, then continued up a second crack above to another ledge shared with Ass Index. She did not climb the final crack above because of loose blocks.

Steve Charest on GNR
GNR 5.12d 90' sport
Begin 20' left of The Rose. Climb interesting pockets, edges and crystals to a ledge. Fire up sloping vertical cracks to a shallow left-facing corner and work up to a smaller second ledge. Milk the rest, then float the first crux to gain thin crimps. Move to the arete and jam, pinch or crimp to a third ledge. Tackle yet another left-facing corner making a committing deadpoint move into the route's final crux and the chains. 10 bolts. FA Steve Charest, Andrea Charest Sep. 19, 2014

The Backside
To reach the backside of Upper West and Trillium, hike steeply uphill from The Rose until the trail levels off. Pass the gap-jump on your left and scramble down a steep gully clambering over a boulder en-route. It's also possible to reach the buttress from The Rose by simply following the contour around to the west, passing a number of nice-looking-but-short cliffs and trending slightly uphill to the crag. The cliff is roughly 200 yards right of The Rose. This is the only area of Upper West to get late afternoon sun.

Seth Maciejowski seconding the FA of Trillium
Trillium 5.10c 45'  
Climb a short hand crack to a tooth jug. Follow intermittent cracks with great stopper placements and interesting face holds, up and right, joining another crack and a second tooth jug. Break back left and finish up steep holds on an excellent left-facing crack. Belay from the trees above. A good climb that would probably become popular if it were easier to find. FA Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, May 3, 2013


Alias Wall
Through the forest, downhill, and to the north of the North End of Upper West is an often glimpsed and seldom climbed crag recently dubbed The Alias Wall. A few routes were climbed here years ago but the cliff has remained pretty quiet despite having a few good lines. Recently Conor Mark, Kristofer Fiore, and Dylan Oliver have rediscovered the cliff and added some new routes.

The Alias Wall can be reached two ways. The first is directly from the North Wall of Upper West by hiking down into the gully below The Rose, trending North around the right side of a short wet wall. This brings you to a cliff 40 ft left of Corndog Crack. The direct approach follows the network of boulder trails until reaching the Shark's Fin boulder problem. Continue past The Shark’s Fin and follow the trail up and left past Old School Jugs which brings you to the front of the cliff below Carolina In My Mind.

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Alias Wall (AKA "The Stack")

Another One for the Books 5.8 50'
Climb the dirty, left-hand crack. FA Dylan Oliver, May. 13, 2014

New Noise 5.10c 45'
A bolt protected face mixed with gear placements. Start a few feet left of Yet Another 5.7 Corner on the slab face. Place a small cam before trending left to clip the first bolt from a somewhat scary flake. Gain the ledge under the bulge passing a horizontal crack and a bolt. Pull the bulge (crux) and use the convenient jug above the anchors to finish. FA Kristofer Fiore, Brian Merrill, May 29, 2014.

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Dylan Oliver on Yet Another 5.7 Corner
Erica's Sister, Right? 5.7 45'
Jeff Wagner spent three days of cleaning and scrubbing to unearth a nice 5.7 corner. Locate the obvious left-facing corner and climb it over a bulge to a stance before taking on the vertical finish. Be careful of potentially loose rock and hollow flakes near the top. Belay from trees. ACB Jeff Wagner, Jim Plumpton, 2004

Corndog Crack 5.10a 65'
Climb the zig zag shelf just right of a mossy gully. Continue over ledges and blocks gaining a squeeze chimney. Pull the crux by moving into a hand crack where the chimney narrows. Continue easily to a ledge and then up an easy crack/corner above the chimney to the anchor. Named in honor of a #4 Camalot Oliver taped to a stick at the crux to reach a solid placement above during the FA. Rack large cams. FA Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark May 13, 2014 Variation: GMO Finish 5.10a 65'. At the top of the crack move left to narrow ledge. Climb left side of a steep pillar past a nut and a bolt to climb directly over the top. FA Kristofer Fiore, May 29, 2014


Aretenophobia 5.10c/d (5.6R) 70' sport
Begin 10' right of Corndog Crack at the line of bolts up an arête. Climb the toe of the arête up to the left rising ramp. Surmount the ledge and take advantage of a no hands rest before pulling the small roof sequence to gain the slab above. FA Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, May 20, 2014

Carolina on My Mind 5.11a (5.6R) 70' sport

Named for it's similarity of southern slabs. Climb the rightmost bolted line above the narrow ledge, 10' right of Arêtenophobia. Gain an undercling to a stance and clip the first bolt. Move left of the bolt, then back right with difficulty to gain a second bolt, clipping from hidden jug. Easy climbing leads to a thin move pulling over a very difficult crux bulge (might be harder than 5.10d- unconfirmed). Finish up a long unbolted 5.6 slab (optional cam) to the anchor. FA Conor Mark, Kristofer Fiore, May 20, 2014.

 

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Kristofer Fiore on the FA of Aretenophobia


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Conor Mark on Carolina on My Mind
Corn Beef Hash 5.8+ 65'
An obscure climb on the backside of Corndog Crack- the crack goes all the way through the cliff to the middle of Corndog. Locate this climb by hiking around the cliff from Carolina in my Mind and crawl up the cave-like passage until you reach this wide crack on your left. Lieback the wide zig zag crack to good arm bar and gear. Finish by bouldering over the bulge on the right. FA Dylan Oliver, May 20, 2014



The Bolton Quarry

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I Thought You Had It in wet conditions
Where's the Wrench? 5.8 40' sport 
Begin just right of Playground Bully. Make a bouldery start, then climb up to nice ledges passing the first two bolts. Decipher a tricky move to gain a hidden hold, make a few balancy moves, then traverse to the anchors. FA Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman. Apr. 28, 2014

I Thought You Had It 5.8 40' sport 
Begin a few feet to the right of Where’s the Wrench? Start below a good ledge, make a few powerful moves to gain a comfortable clipping stance. Above the last bolt, take a deep breath, then make fun stemming moves up to the anchor. For an extra challenge, avoid the wall on the right. FA Marissa Gorman, Kristofer Fiore. Apr. 28, 2014



The Carcass Crag
Corporal Jigsore 5.10b 45' 
A good warm-up for The Carcass. Just left of Going Postal, locate a bolt about 15' up. Boulder up to the bolt, then make an awkward move up to another bolt. Bite down on steep, powerful moves and latch a good right-hand at the third bolt. Continue up a somewhat dirty section (a bit heady) to a great hand jam. Place gear (red Camelot) and move up to another crack (purple Camelot). Make juggy moves out the steep overhang above to the anchor. FA Seth Maciejowski, Dennis Delay, Oct. 27, 2012


The 82 - The October Wall
A recently developed cliff, visible to the left when approaching the 82 cliff on the new approach trail.

Han Shot First 5.10c 40' sport
Begin 10 feet left of Vanishing Act below a high first bolt. An optional medium cam protects the moves to the first bolt. Work up to a tricky mantle to a thin face leading under the roof. Traverse left under the roof until it is possible to pull up and over to a decent stance. One final crux guards the top and a lower-off anchor. Alternatively, continue straight up over the anchor with small cams to the end of Vanishing Act and enjoy the huge sunny ledge above. FA Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, Oct. 21, 2015.

Vanishing Act 5.7+ PG 95'
Make your way up the chimney until it is possible to squeeze through a break on the left. Work left up onto a ridge and continue straight up the face through a short crux as the angle eventually lowers into a knobby featured slab. Follow this to finish at a chain anchor. Standard rack with emphasis on small gear. FA Connor Myers, Kristofer Fiore, Oct. 21, 2015
Nuffin' but a Puffin' 5.10a 95' 
Follow good horizontal cracks through a powerful low move up to a shallow right facing corner to a licheney topout at a chain anchor. FA Kris Fiore, Seth Maciejowski, Oct. 31, 2015.

Third Wave 5.10a 95'  sport
Straight up the arete on the right end of the buttress, then left on glue in bolts up easy ground to glue-in chain anchor at the top of Nuffin' but a Puffin'FA Seth Maciejowski, Kris Fiore, Oct. 31, 2015 
Nuffin' but a Peanut 5.10c 40'  sport

Scramble up around the right side of the buttress. Climb the slightly overhanging face to a ring bolt anchor. 6 bolts. FA Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski, Sam Davies, Oct. 24 2015.


Oooh, Exciting! 5.9+ 40'  top rope

Climb a short face to gain a big left-facing corner at a the left-side of a roof. Climb the corner to a shared ring-bolt anchor. FA Sam Davies (top rope), Oct. 24, 2015

 

Connor Myers on the 2nd ascent of 
Han Shot First

The 82 - Main Wall
Variation: Block Dancing 5.9+ PG 160' 
A fun linkup of Block Party and Politics of DancingClimb the first pitch of Block Party to the two bolt belay. Continue past the first three bolts on the second pitch, then head right on nice cracks to an easy ramp. Move up and right to a steep bulge. Place a nest of gear and move right, making an awkward move to join Politics of Dancing about halfway up that route.  Finish up PoliticsGear to 3" light rack and a lot of quickdraws. FA Dennis Delay, Seth Maciejowski, Jun, 2013

Piss and Vinegar 5.7 80' 
Climb the blocky crack system between Year of the Dog and Quills. Surprisingly good climbing despite how grungy and loose it looks from the ground. Make crux chimney moves off the ground and climb the bulging quartzite intrusion on chunky solid jugs. Climb the crack for about 70'. When the crack ends, continue straight up and join Arms Reduction, break left to the first pitch anchor on Year of the Dog, or move right and climb to the Quills anchor. Standard rack with a few extra TCUs in the smaller sizes. ACB Seth Maciejowski, Eric Seaton, Bekah Gordon, Apr. 20, 2014

Reminds Me of Vegas 5.10a 80'
Climbs the vertical wall between Fernwood Manor and Cat's on Broadway. Climb the initial crack of Cats on Broadwaythen instead of continuing right to the crack / corner of Cats, head straight up the headwall to a bolt (crux). Continue up passing bolts and small gear in horizontal cracks. Protect the exit with a finger-sized cam and power out the last few moves to a ring bolt anchor. Light rack to 2". FA Derrek Anderson, Dennis Delay, 2014

Creme de la Choss project (5.12 ?) 70' sport

Below the Steep Wall at the 80 is a short face leading to a big horizontal roof. Climb up the face, passing 3 bolts to a stance below the roof. Power out the roof following a big flake, then continue up the vertical face above to the top. Project Kristofer Fiore, fall 2015.


Flynnstone 5.8+ 95'  sport

Begin 50 feet right of the approach scramble to the Steep Wall. Climb up easy rock just left of wet munge, aiming for a right facing corner. Climb up the corner passing a wedged block. Continue up the clean face above, making a devious move to the right around the 6th bolt. Continue more easily up steep ramps and good holds and make a final challenging move up to the anchor. FA Travis Peckham, Flynn Peckham, Eric Seaton, Bekah Gordon, Apr. 20, 2014

 
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Flynn Peckham following the FA of
Flynnstone


The 82 - The Steep Wall
A number of variations to existing routes have been done at the Steep Wall on the 82...

Fogghorn 5.12c 75'  sport

Climb Doggfather to the good foot-ledge at bolt 5, then move right, passing a bolt, to a reasonable rest on Red Hen. Finish up the big roof exit on Red Hen. FA Unknown.


Firewall 5.13a 95'  sport

Climb Encryption to bolt 9, move a few moves out onto Enter the Dweezil, then make a powerful move up and climb the last two bolts of Steppin' Razor. An outstanding pitch! FA Peter Kamitses, mid-2010's


Upper Upper West Bolton - Double Up Dome
A good beginner location with a couple of easy climbs with decent gear. Very nice southern exposure and nice, bullet-hard dry rock.  
Approach: Begin at the Upper Upper parking area. Hike the Preston Pond trail for approximately 1/4 mile. Turn right, up into the woods, just before you reach a prominent boulder on the left side of the trail. Head up through some scattered blocks to the base of a short steep wall. Alternatively, hike up to the wild west wall, then continue past Reign of Lichen until the herd path flattens out, then trend slightly down and left for 100 yards until you find the top of an open dome.

Shitney Gillman 5.5 (5.3 PG-13) 100'
Rack gear to tight hands. 
P.1 Climb easy slabs up to a cool foot ledge feature traversing right out the overhanging wall. Clip a bolt, then pull over the top of the wall and belay at cracks on a nice flat ledge. 5.5 
P.2 Climb straight up the blunt arete, passing good gear and a bolt, to the crest of the dome and belay in a nice crack.  5.5
ACB Adam Sherman, Seth Maciejowski, Nov. 3, 2013
 
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Seth Maciejowski on 
Mittens for Kittens


Mittens for Kittens 5.5 (5.3 PG-13) 50'
From the belay atop P.1 of Shitney Gillman, climb up the right side of the blunt arete through a small crack system. Move directly up the easy face above, eventually reaching the same P.2 belay crack at the top of Shitney Gillman.
ACB Seth Maciejowski, Adam Sherman Nov. 3, 2013

Chemical Warfare 5.5 (5.3 PG-13) 60'
From the belay atop P.1 of Shitney Gillman, hike about 100' right into the trees, following a slabby wall the forms the right side of the dome. Alternatively, hike along the top of the dome heading north until you can cut back right through a tree ledge and down to the base of the wall. Find a shallow corner and crack system in the clean slabs at the base of the wall. Climb the shallow corner and cracks, trending right. Continue up, finding occasional gear placements, and belay from trees at the top of the cliff. ACB Seth Maciejowski, Adam Sherman Nov. 3, 2013

Gas Mask 5.5 60'
Start as for Chemical Warfare but move up and left, following cracks, past a ledge. Continue up lower angled rock to belay a large pine tree. ACB Adam Sherman Nov. 5, 2013

Upper Upper West Bolton - Wild West
Reign of Lichen 5.7 (5.5 PG-13) 150'
Begin 40 feet up and left of Milk Train. 
P.1 Head straight up featured open slab to the large pine tree finding a few small nut placements along the way. 5.5 PG-13 60'. 
P.2 Head right from the belay and then straight up over two bulges to a short crux that leads to a right leaning ramp. Follow ramp up and then cross over dike and head up featured slab to the top. 5.7 PG 90'.
FA Adam Sherman, rope solo, Sept 7, 2013

Old School 5.8 (5.6 R) 90'
Climb steep cracks with good gear 30' right of the start of Full Term. When the crack forks, go right around a small roof. Going up the left crack from where is the "Old Route" FA unknown. Continue right to the bottom of a large arch. Climb up the arch, occasionally moving right on to the slab, until you reach a 2' deep ledge. Move left and belay at small trees (no fixed anchor). Move left 30' to a red pine with slings at the top of wild west old route and rap with one rope to the ground or continue up wandering slabs to the top of the cliff.  ACB Dennis Delay, Seth Maciejowski, Sept. 21, 2012.

The Master-Debater 5.8+ 80'
Start on the steep crack system as for Old School. When that route breaks right to gain the big arch feature, go left aiming for a lone bolt make some moves up to a good stance and clip another bolt in low angle rock. Move up to a stance at a headwall. Reach up and clip a bolt high and make a long reach to a sloper. Pull hard on bad feet and move up on easy terrain for 20' to a big red pine with cord and quick-links for rappelling. Light rack to 2" with a double set of small cams. Named in honor of Mitt Romney's debate performance in the 2012 presidential election. FA Seth Maciejowski, Dennis Delay Oct 6 2012.

Upper Upper West Bolton - Main Face

Heavy Weather 5.9 90' 
Hike up to the Main Face at Double Upper (or alternatively, climb Cadet's Corner) and go to the far right end of the ledge, beyond Ladybug and Night Crawlers, to where the trail ends behind a huge left-facing flake. Locate a bolt about 25' up the slab above. Climb the slab past the bolt, then pull a tricky crux into a small left-facing corner. Place gear, then climb past 4 more bolts. At a small roof, step right to a short corner and up to a bolted anchor on a good ledge. Rappel or join P.2 of PeregriNation. Bring a light rack to supplement the bolts. FA: Seth Maciejowski, Mark Klonicke Oct. 6, 2013 
PeregriNation 5.10c 200' 
Hike up to the Main Face at Double Upper (or alternatively, climb Cadet's Corner) and start about 50' right of Ladybug
P.1 Look for a bolt about 20' up a slab. Follow three bolts up and over a tricky bulge (5.8). Continue up a to a brushy ledge with flake. Clip a bolt and pull over a roof, moving up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt. Continue trending up and left on easy terrain until directly under a big roof. Pull the roof making a few powerful moves (crux) then climb past three more bolts to a spacious belay ledge. Belay from gear at a crack with a birch tree. Walk right about 20' and rappel from the anchor on Heavy Weather or finish up P.2. 120' 5.10c (5.7 PG-13)
P.2  Climb up the crack directly off the belay to a bushy corner. Continue up dirty cracks to a big ledge. Finish up the lichen covered face above and top out on big holds. Rappel to the anchor on top of Heavy Weather from a big white pine (no fixed slings at this time). 5.6 80' FA Seth Maciejowski, Travis Peckham Sep. 1, 2014; Tom O'Keefe was also involved in developing the route prior to the FA. 

 

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Seth Maciejowski on 
PeregriNation
photo by Jake Snyder

Persistence 5.6 110'  sport 
Approach around the north end of the beaver ponds about 200' left of the guides' wall area.  Hike up above the beaver ponds under an open area of wet rock (Where the ice climbs "Decalfitator" and "Double Upper Slab" are located) with a big wet corner system (Double Upper Pillar WI3+/4-) and move left out a grassy shelf above a drop off just down and left of the corner.  Look for a lone bolt up and left; this is the start of Persistence.  
Belay off a tree on the grassy ledge; move down and left on the shelf above the drop off.  Move up the first bolt.  Continue up and left passing 8 more bolts to thin slab moves and the anchor.  Descend with two ropes. You can rap back to the start of the route. With one rope you can rappel to a tree ledge directly below the anchor. From the tree ledge either make a short rap down over a brushy, wet ledge to the slope above the beaver pond or make a short 4th class (no gear) traverse above the drop off back across the shelf to the start of the route.  FA Seth Maciejowski, rope solo, Aug. 2015 

Redneck Olympics 5.7- 90'  
Start on the tree ledge left of the start of Persistence.  Either climb Persistence and rap to the ledge or do the 4th class traverse left to reach the ledge.  Start below a left facing corner.  Climb the corner on small stoppers and a bolt to a great cam placement.  Continue up past more tricam and nut placements  and two more bolts to a crack left of the anchor on Persistence.  Move up the crack, place gear and traverse right to the Persistence anchor.  Follow descent options per Persistence. FA Adam Sherman, Seth Maciejowski, Nov. 22, 2015
 

Seth Maciejowski on 
Redneck Olympics
photo by Adam Sherman

The Pit Crag
Swamp Thing 5.11a 60'  sport 
A new line between Third Generation and Cate and the Caterpillars.. Climb thin, technical rock with interesting pockets and slots, to a tough move up and right utilizing a mono-pocket. Jug haul up steepening rock on amazing pockets, then step right to meet up with the last bolt of Cate and the Caterpillars. FA Travis Peckham, Eric Seaton, Rebekah Gordon on Aug 28, 2014. Seth Maciejowski and Flynn Peckham were also involved in early attempts. Variation: Swap Thing Direct 5.12a 70'  sportThe direct finish, left passing two more bolts to finish a the anchor atop Third Generation. FA Kris Fiore Nov. 9, 2015.

Bone Mountain
Spider Slot 5.8 80'
Climb the obvious left facing corner 100' to the right of Fiddler on the Roof. Gain the ledge 20' up to belay. Enter the void and squeeze up the chimney until it gets too tight, then move out onto face and continue to the top. Rack gear to 4". ACB Dylan Oliver 

3rd Time is a Charm 5.8 60'
Somewhat left of Family Picnic is a large chimney. Left of this is a crack system led by June Mendell in 2005. The pitch ends at a sling on a tree.
Alden Pellet on the FA of Snap, Crackle, Pop
Snap, Crackle, Pop 5.9 160' 
Roughly 100' left of Family Picnic and 75' right of Fiddler on the Roof are two short parallel offwidth chimneys starting behind a prominent white birch. Gear to fist sized. 
P.1 Climb the right hand chimney 15' to a left facing corner with a tapering crack. Climb the crack to a shallow shelf and a crack system to belay. Alternatively, break right before the crack thins and climb right then back left to the belay for and easier variation. 5.9 60' 
P.2  Step left from the belay and climb up into a left facing corner (extremely dirty and lichen covered right now) to super cool layback moves and another nice belay ledge. 5.7 50' 
P.3 Climb right from belay through bushes on very dirty licheny rock to great easy moves up a right facing open book to the very top of the detached pillar left of family picnic. 5.6 50' 
Descend by down climbing the back of the pillar into a gully left of Fathers Day. Make a short rap off spruce trees to an easy scramble to the base of Fathers DayFA Alden Pellet, Seth Maciejowski, May 19, 2013


Bone Mountain - Marrow Wall
Just uphill and left of a short splitter hand crack and roughly 350' left of Bone Appetite, scramble onto a wide ledge. Routes begin on the left side of the ledge. Currently, there is no anchor for this wall. Rap from trees, or 4th class down a narrow gully behind Red Marrow.

Red Marrow 5.8
Begin on the left end of the Marrow Wall ledge. Grunt past branches onto ledge at chest height. Continue up a corner past a unsettling-looking, but solid, chockstone. Move right to an alcove, then use an oval-shaped pod on the right to swing onto a face and into a hand crack. Jame the crack past a wedged block at the lip. Belay up and right from trees. FA Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver, Chris Cullaz, May 8, 2014

Yellow Marrow 5.6
Begin just right of Red Marrow. Slab up to the right of the small birch and hemlock to base of corner crack and right-leaning ramp. Follow this to a crux bulge and onto a ledge with a lose block. Continue up the crack, pulling another crux at the lip, and belay from trees. 
FA Dylan Oliver, Chris Cullaz, Conor Mark, May 8, 2014

Raptor Ramp 5.6
Several hundred yards right of Bone Appetite is a right-angling ramp chocked with saplings at its base. Climb the ramp to a red pine, then move back left and up to the top. Belay from a tree on a ledge with a great view. Oliver says, "Better than it looks." 
FA Dylan Oliver, Chris Cullaz, Conor Mark, May 8, 201
4

 

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Dylan Oliver on the FA of Yellow Marrow


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The FA of Ugly Little Fuckers
Ugly Little Fuckers V2
A boulder problem at the base of Raptor Ramp. Sit Start. Up the left side of the arête. Named for the baby vultures encountered rapping from Raptor Ramp.



Bone Mountain - Solstice Slab
The Solstice Slab is a 180', low-angle slab that sits directly between Family Picnic and Bone Appetit. Just to the left of the Solstice Slab, there is a tall, steep wall. Bone of Contention, Radius, and Ulna can be found there. Sad Peter, a two pitch route, can be found on the Solstice Slab.

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Aro's Grand Adventure
Aro's Grand Adventure 5.7 160' 
Climb up on the far left side of the solstice slab. gain the tree ledge to belay then continue up the prominent corner, avoiding loose rock until you reach a 2" horizontal hand crack. Pull some committing moves on the head wall on the left or continue up the dirty low angle slab on the right if you dare. belay from trees walk over to the anchors of sad peter on the right or walk down via the snap, crackle, pop descent. An "adventure" climb.
 
FA Dylan Oliver, rope solo, May 2015



FA of Stinkadabuttsa
Stinkadabuttsa 5.7 90' 
Stinkadabuttsa climbs the center of the solstice Slab. Make a few moves up mossy rock following a broken crack system aiming for a bolt in a headwall. Continue up steep terrain with excellent holds and clean rock. Finish up an easy slab to a great belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 
FA 
Kristofer Fiore, Katy Gimma, Maggie Belensz, Aaron Rice, November 15, 2015

Lost in the Forest 5.8+ 180' 
P.1 On the right hand side of the Solstice slab of Bone Mountain, work up a mossy slab aiming for two bolts in the center of the dark-colored headwall 20' feet left of the right end of the solstice slab (bolts are hard to see). Continue up broken cracks with excellent gear to a featured slab and a two-bolt anchor. 5.8+ 90'
P.2  Off the belay, climb up an easy right-facing corner (small wires and TCUs) to a stance and a vertical crack system. Continue up past horizontal cracks with awesome gear. Pass a bolt and bit of dirty climbing to a nice grassy shelf with a two bolt anchor. 5.6 90'. Rappel the route with a 60M rope. Rack to 3".
FA Kris Fiore, Seth Maciejowski, Nov. 5, 2015

Bone of Contention 5.11a 100' 
This route heads up a bulging slab to a dihedral and then out the upper left face on an overhung hand and finger crack.  The crux, gaining the dihedral, is height dependent and may be much harder for climbers under 6ft.  The bolt at the top is difficult to clip and represents thmental crux. 
FA Brian Wade, Matt Bresler Sep. 2014

Radius 5.9 110' 
Radius climbs the center of the wall past overlaps and corners. Start at a birch tree. Climb straight up to a nice left leaning finger crack in steep rock. Follow bolts left and upward. It then moves right at a low angled section to gain another ledge. Finish up an overhung headwall to the anchors. Bring long draws to reduce drag
FA Brian Wade, Bridget Croke, Matt Bresler Jul. 2014

 

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Brian Wade on Radius
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Jeff Pedersen on Sad Peter
Ulna 5.10b 110' 
The bolt line right of Radius. Start as for Radius but move right finding gear and climbing up to a high bolt. Follow these bolts to a powerful crux over an overlap to a left facing corner on a steep slab with gear placements in horizontals. Meet the bolt line on Radius and continue to the top.
 
FA Matt Bresler, Brian Wade Jul. 2014

Sad Peter 5.7 180' 
P.1 Start at the toe of the Solstice Slab and break through the obvious weakness to a ring anchor half way up.  P.2 Follow bolts and hidden gear placements to the top. 
FA Brian Wade, Jeff Pedersen, Bekah Woodin, Kelly Prime, Hannah Phillips Jun. 2014


Bone Mountain - Moose Bones
To locate the routes hike right from the Solstice Slab a few hundred feet until you reach a huge 25' overhanging cave. In case that isn't obvious enough there is a moose skull and pile of bones in the cave between the two routes. The cave is about 100' left of Bone Appetit.

Dylan Oliver on the FA of Moose's Tooth (5.10c)
Give a Dog a Bone 5.11a 50'
This wild route tackles the main break in the roof, just left of center. Begin left of the crack and make an easy traverse to the right. Place gear from a stance just below the roof and gain your wits. Use whatever sorcery you can to get through the roof. If you play your cards right you gain a perfect no hands bat hang to place gear after the first crux. A few more hard moves gets you around the lip to a nice stance. Finish up trending right up the slab on discontinuous cracks to a bolted anchor. FA Kristofer Fiore Sep. 25, 2014

The Moose's Tooth 5.10c 40'
Not as intimidating as it first appears. Climb the obvious massive wide roof crack on the right hand side of the cave. Finish up the cleaner slab to the left of a dirty corner. 2-bolt anchor. Gear to 5" is ideal though it can be done with smaller gear. Highly recommended by the FA party.  FA Dylan Oliver, Kristofer Fiore, Conor Mark, Sep. 25, 2014

The following climbs are accessed from Moose Bones Ledge directly above Give a Dog a Bone and The Moose's Tooth. To gain the ledge, climb either route, or take a 5.6 scramble just left of the large cave.

The Schistine Chapel  5.11c 85'
Begin in the corner of the ledge under an obvious horizontal overlap. Work up onto the ledge and traverse left on the overlap (.75 Camelot protects) to a steep crack. Climb the crack to a bolt, then make devious moves to gain a hold near the top of the lip. Follow bolts, finding the path of least resistance through a number of pumpy overhangs with incut holds. Pull one more tough crux section on hidden holds before a final technical bit ends at a ledge with a two bolt anchor. 9 bolts and a .75 Camelot. The initial crux sequence can be avoided by climbing the start of Skeleton Crack bringing the grade down to 5.11a. FA Kristofer Fiore, Nov. 4, 2014. 

Skeleton Crack  5.9 85'
Climb a left-facing corner on the right side of the ledge to a good stance. Continue up through a steep crux and into a right-facing corner. Continue up to a large belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Needs a little traffic to clean up some of the holds. FA Dylan Oliver, Kristofer Fiore Oct. 31, 2014, Halloween!

Bone Mountain - Bone Appetit
The following two routes are on the right (east) side of the Main Cliff a considerable distance beyond Family Picnic. Both starts are currently marked with pink flagging. 

Bone Appetit 5.9 110' sport
Start on a short steep wall with interesting pockets and holes on gritty rock. Pull over a bulge, continuing up a slab toward steeper ground. Face climb up the buttress with a thoughtful crux near the top. 8 bolts. 110' 5.9 Rappel with a single 60M rope. FA Dustin Dearborn, Nate Beckwith, Rob Niles, Aug. 2013

Dust-in Bones 5.9 100' 
Start just right of the previous route at a large right facing corner with beautiful arching hand/finger crack. Standard rack to 3.5"
P.1 Climb the crack up and out right to a small stance with a two bolt anchor. 5.9 50'
P.2 Climb past a bolt to another crack leading up to an anchor near the top of the cliff. Normal rack to 3.5". 5.9 50' 
FA Dustin Dearborn, Rob Niles, Aug. 2013

Stockholm Syndrome 5.10 90' 
Start by walking about 50 feet right from Bone Appetite and Dust-In Bones, pass under an orange overhang and find a large tree at a right-facing corner. Make your way up behind the tree and into the corner and gain a ledge. Traverse left on a good horizontal finger crack, then make your way up to a dicey crux crack. Step between a forked tree then follow the weakness to a good ledge. Move about 15 feet left to find the anchors of Dust-In Bones. New anchors coming soon. Currently needs a scrubbing but has some worthwhile climbing. 90’ FA Dylan Oliver, Kristopher Fiore, Apr. 12, 2015