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Northwest Vermont - Updates

Lower West Bolton

Highlight
The FA or Highlight was done by Reinhold Busko. Reinhold is from Germany, not Austria. 

"Left Boulder"
Uphill and left of Wavey Goodbye is a huge boulder with a crack. Tim Beaman led this giving it 5.9. If you're short, it is apparently considerably harder.

Late for Dinner
June Mendell accompanied Alden Pellet on the first ascent (which was in 1998, not early 2000's)

Dogzilla
Dogzilla is 5.9, not 5.11. 

TR Routes
There are several routes that have been top roped by June Mendell on the right end of LWB. 

Upper West Bolton

Below the South End...
There are a few easy top rope problems on the cliff south of It's Not a Cruise.

Breaking And Entering
It's been reported that Breaking and Entering has 8 bolts, not 7. 

Below Chockstone...
Two dirty, chossy direct variations to Chockstone have been led by Kris Barrowman and June Mendell. It's likely that others have tried this as well. Most parties will just want to start from the ledge.


Upper Upper West Bolton

E.N.S.
E.N.S. does not deserve the R rating is gets in the book as it is not particularly runout. One doesn't need to “step right" from the belay; it’s pretty much straight up. Loose rock isn't a particular concern on this route. It's typical quality schist and no worse than other routes on the cliff. 

The bolts on ENS were not placed by Ian Howatt in 1999, but instead were placed by Jay Lyon and Ben Champoux in 1996. They believed they were doing the first ascent and dubbed the route Nice Gneiss, even though they knew it was schist.

Full Term
The first pitch of Full Term only has one bolt; the topo shows two. The pitch is also probably more like 5.6 than 5.7. 

The Pit Crag

Third Generation
Third Generation is listed both as 5.12a on the topo and 5.12c in the text. The route is 5.12c.