What's New

December 8th, 2015
Three new routes at Prospect Rock were added this fall by Bill Mitchell, Jessica Sherman, and Matt Farney. Slabby Slab Slab (5.5), Deception (5.6), and R U Urban (5.7)

November 25th, 2015
Stinksadabuttsa (5.7)was added to Bone Mountain's Solstice Slab, by Kris Fiore and party on November 15th. Adam Sherman and Seth Maciejowski freed Redneck Olympics (5.7-) at Upper Upper where Seth Maciejowski also added the sport climb Persistence (5.6). Derrek Anderson and Dennis Delay's 2014 route, Reminds Me of Vegas (5.10a), at the 82 Crag is now up on the web site, as well as descriptions of the Steep Face linkups Fogghorn (5.12c) and Firewall (5.13a). 

November 9th, 2015
Lost in the Forest (5.8+)a new route at Bone Mountain on the Solstice Slab, was established by Kris Fiore and Seth Macijowski on November 5th. Fiore and Maciejowski also added Third Wave (5.10a) and Nuffin' but a Puffin' on the October Wall at The 82.

October 25, 2015
The new Tough Schist mobile app was launched last Friday. For more info, click here.
Routes were put up on the newly developed October Wall at the 82 Crag including Han Shot First (5.10c), and Vanishing Act (5.7+) ,by Kris Fiore and Conner Myers, and Nuffin but a Peanut (5.10c) by Travis Peckham and Seth Maciejowski, and Oooh Exciting (5.9+? toprope) by Sam Davies.

arc Couper and Andrew Ruschp added a new pitch left of the second pitch of Steep Jugs in Smugglers' Notch. The Residents goes at 5.9 and was freed on August 29, 2015.

September 8, 2015
Marc Couper and Andrew Ruschp added a new pitch left of the second pitch of Steep Jugs in Smugglers' Notch. The Residents goes at 5.9 and was freed on August 29, 2015.

July 18, 2015
Nathan Vince climbed Take Back Crack (5.9 R/X) to the right of Take Vermont from Behind on the Upper Tier at Upper West. This line has probably been climbed but this is the first known ascent. Hope Chipman and Nate Vince climbed an integral route called The Sidewalk (5.8 R) at Upper West which starts on Dr. Dias before traversing under the huge Upper Tier roof to Ledangier and up to the top. 
Added a new updates page to cover news in The Northeast Kingdom. Added the Garcia-Powers route done last year and several other updates.

June 15, 2015
Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, and Russell Frisch, put in a new line 25' left of the top anchors on Fresh Meat on June 11th, 2015. Rancid Meat (5.10c) climbs the steep face on the left side of the same feature as Old Bones

June 12, 2015
An email from Bud Keene shed some light on earlier ascents of Smuggs routes including the FA of The Brazilian and Twisted Fate ("Celeste"). Keene also provided additional info on Quartz Crack, The Diagonal and "Keene Corner" on the Easy Gully Buttress. 

May 31, 2015
Some of CRAG-VT's neighbors at the Bolton Quarry have never been happy about climbers and have made a point of letting us know we're not welcome. Recently many new posted signs were put up on the old approach to the 82 Crag. Several climbers have also been chased off by a neighbor on his ATV. Know that through CRAG-VT, climbers own the Quarry, the Carcass Crag and a public access to the 82 Crag. Please respect the posted signs and make sure to take the Katzman trail (the approved approach in Tough Schist). We'll soon be doing some additional work to improve the trail and make it easier to follow. This is a great time to reflect on the fact that without CRAG-VT and your community support, The Quarry, The Carcass Crag, and the 82 Crag would most certainly be lost to us by now. Please consider supporting CRAG-VT as a member or volunteer.

May 23, 2015
Kristofer Fiore, Max Forbes and Luke Barnes climbed Beginner's Luck (5.8) and Doug the Subway Fugitive (5.10d) at Upper West on May 22, 2015

Marc Couper and Andrew Ruschp added 5 bolts to Stepstool, with permission of the FA party. Marc Couper, Tracey Eykelhoff bolted and climbed Judy's Ridge (5.4) in the E.N.T. Gully on 10/12/2014. The old pin anchor on Low Rent has also been replaced with bolts.

May 11, 2015
Dylan Oliver climbed Aro's Grand Adventure (5.7), rope soloon the Solstice Slab at Bone Mountain in early May 2015.

April 15, 2015
Kristofer Fiore and Russel Frisch established Peachy Caboodle (5.9) at Upper West on 4/14/2015.
Peregrine closures announced at Upper Upper West Bolton and the left side of Marshfield Ledge.

April 13, 2015
Dylan Oliver and Kristofer Fiore established Stockholm Syndrome (5.10) at Bone Mountain

November 24, 2014
Tim Heaghney freed an open project first aided by Dave Vuono on the High Grade wall on Marshfield Ledge. Formerly called Crossing the Boundary, Tim renamed the free climb Vounilla and offered the grade 5.13 b/c. 

November 11, 2014
Kristofer Fiore and Dylan Oliver added a few late-season lines lines The Schistine Chapel (5.11c) and Skeleton Crack (5.9) at Bone Mountain in late October and early November. 

September 29, 2014
Dylan Oliver, Kristofer Fiore and Conor Mark established The Moose's Tooth (5.10c) and Give a Dog a Bone (5.11a) at Bone Mountain on Sep. 25, 2014. 

September 26, 2014
Steve and Andrea Charest did the FA of GNR (5.12d) at Upper West on September 19th. Brian Wade and crew reported four new routes they did this summer at Bone Mountain: Sad Peter (5.7), Bone of Contention (5.11a), Radius (5.9), and Ulna (5.10b).

September 5, 2014
Greg Kuchyt, Ryan Brink, Emma Millar, Janika Chartrand established the Happy Puppet variation (5.8+) to Mal Bouche at Upper West on August 29. A fixed anchor was added that can be shared by both variations. Seth Maciejowski did the FA of PeregriNation (5.10c) at Upper Upper with Travis Peckham on August 31st.

August 28, 2014
Travis Peckham, Flynn Peckham, Eric Seaton, and Rebekah Gordon freed Swamp Thing (5.11a) at The Pit Crag in Bolton on August 27th, 2014. Seth Maciejowski and Flynn Peckham were also involved in establishing the route.

August 21, 2014
Travis Peckham, Flynn Peckham, Eric Seaton, and Reed Hanson established Rented Mule (5.10c) at Upper West on August 19th, 2014

July 27, 2014
Dylan Oliver, Kristofer Fiore, Chris Cullaz, and Conor Mark put up a slew of new routes on the Alias Wall near Upper West and at Bone Mountain. Travis Peckham established Phantom Ticks (5.10b) at Upper West.

June 13, 2014
Greg Kuchyt and Janika Chartrand climbed a new route at Prospect Rock, Buy the Farm (5.7+) on June 7th, 2014.

May 3, 2014
Marissa Gorman and Kristofer Fiore established two new sport climbs, Where's the Wrench? (5.8) and I Thought You Had It (5.8) at the Bolton Quarry on April 28th, 2014 in disturbingly wet conditions.

April 29, 2014
Here's an update from Margaret Fowle at the NWS on the status of peregrine falcon closures. As always, please respect.

1. Arrowhead (Milton) – pair present and likely incubating at the old common raven nest used in previous years (J Pennucci).
2. Bald Mt (W. Haven) – no known visit to-date.
3. Ball Mt (Jamaica) – pair present and eyrie has been located. Male is unbanded; female unknown, but a banded adult was seen by USDA staff in late March (K Wohlfort).
4. Barnet Roadcut (Barnet) – pair is present and incubating at the northern eyrie. Rte 5 pullout is closed (W & E Shedd, K Wohlfort).
5. Bethel Quarry (Bethel) – pair is present and incubating at a new ledge in the active part of quarry (K Wohlfort).
6. Bird Mt (Ira) – pair present and defending the cliff (CJ & M Frankiewicz).
7. Bolton Notch – Upper Upper West (Bolton) – pair observed in early and mid- April; appeared to be favoring the Upper Upper West cliff, but may also be using an area to the south. Cliff is currently closed to climbing. (T Ryan, M Fowle).
8. Bristol Cliffs (Bristol) – pair present (M Audy).
9. Brousseau Mt (Averill) – no known site visit to-date.
10. Checkerberry Ledge (Bakersfield) – pair present and incubating at 2013 eyrie (P Madden).
11. Crystal Lake (Barton) – no known site visit to-date.
12. Deer Leap (Bristol) – suspect presence of pair, but no confirmation of incubation. At least one falcon has been heard from the eastern portion of the cliff. Cliff-top is posted (R Durand).
13. Eagle Mt (Milton) – single bird heard; no confirmation of pair yet (J Pennucci). 
14. Fairlee Palisades (Fairlee) – pair present and is incubating at a new site. The male is unbanded. (K Wohlfort).
15. Hawk Rock (Newark) – no known site visit.
16. Haystack Mt (Pawlet) – no known site visit.
17. Hazens Notch (Lowell) – no known site visit.
18. Highgate Cliffs (Highgate Springs) – no known site visit.
19. Jobs Mt (Westmore) – no known site visit.
20. Mallett’s Bay (Colchester) – presence of at least one falcon confirmed in mid-March (J Pennucci).
21. Marshfield Mt (Marshfield) – pair present and incubating at the 2013 eyrie on the far northwestern portion of the cliff (R Schiff, B Boedecker).
22. Mt. Horrid (Goshen) – pair present and appears to be favoring the east cliff. Great Cliff Overlook is posted (B Flewelling).
23. Nebraska Notch (Underhill) – no known site visit, but a peregrine was heard by some skiers in mid/late March.
24. Nichols Ledge (Woodbury) – pair present. Cliff-top is closed (M Gray & E Hayes).
25. Pond Mt (Wells) – no known site visit.
26. Quarry Hill (Pownal) – pair present and incubating (M Smithers). 
27. Rattlesnake Pt (Salisbury) – at least one falcon heard when posting closure signs in late March. Cliff-top is closed to hiking (S Staats).
28. Red Rock (Hinesburg) – pair present (J LoCicero).
29. Sawyer Mt (Fairlee) – pair present and incubating at the 2013 eyrie. (K Wohlfort).
30. Skitchewaug Mt (Springfield) – pair is present at the southern cliff site and appears to be incubating at the historic eyrie (K Wohlfort).
31. Smuggler’s Notch (Cambridge) – pair appears to be favoring the Elephant Head side of the notch ( J York).
32. Snake Mt (Addison) – pair present and appears to be favoring the 2013 eyrie. Southern cliff top is posted (R Payne).
33. Swanton Quarry (Swanton) – pair present and incubating (P Madden).
34. Table Rock (Manchester) – suspect pair is present, and may be incubating (R LaDue)
35. Townshend Dam (Townshend) – no known site visit .
36. Vermont Yankee (Vernon) – pair present and incubating 4 eggs in the nest box (L Dewald, G Crowley). 
37. Vulture Mt (Stockbridge) – single bird seen on 4/7 (B Beck).
38. Whitcomb Quarry (Colchester) – pair present and incubating at the old raven nest used in 2013 (E Lazarus, B MacPherson).
39. White Rocks (Wallingford) – pair observed and appear to be favoring 2013 nest site (CJ Frankeiwicz, K Guiness, GMNF staff).


April 22, 2014
Peregrine falcons are nesting at Marshfield ledge again this year and a closure is now in effect for the left side of the cliff. Note that High Grade is open, but the main slab area from Ben Worthy of Waden to Marshfield Corners will be closed until further notice (probably mid-summer). Please respect the closure for your safety and the safety of this recovering species. 

April 21, 2014
Travis Peckham, Flynn Peckham, Eric Seaton, and Bekah Gordon climbed Flynnstone (5.8+) at the 82 Crag on April 20, 2014. That same day, Seth maciejowski, Eric Seaton, and Bekah Gordon climbed Piss and Vinegar (5.7) on the Main Face

November 11, 2013
New routes discovered (or rediscovered?) at Upper Upper West Bolton by Seth Maciejowski and Adam Sherman on Nov. 3 2013.

September 30, 2013
Tim Farr and Jess Simon climbed Lil Bean (5.6) in Smugglers' Notch on Sept 25, 2013.

September 22, 2013
Seth Maciejowski and Travis Peckham completed Yggdrasil (5.8+ (5.8 PG-13)) in Smugglers' Notch completing two upper pitches to the route Ragnarete on Sept 19, 2013.

September 17, 2013
Greg Petrics and Christian Theberge established Steep Jugs (5.9) down and right of the Quartz Crack face in Smuggler's Notch on Sept 15, 2013.

September 9, 2013
Adam Sherman did the FA of Reign of Lichen on the Wild West wall at Upper Upper West Bolton on Sept 7, 2013.

September 4, 2013
Tim Farr and Jess Simon added two pitches to complete the Right Finish (5.9+) to The Diagonal in Smugglers' Notch. "Epicormic" (5.9), likely an old line rediscovered near The Diagonal was described by Nathan Vince. 
Dustin Dearborn, Nate Beckwith and Rob Niles added two new routes up at Bone Mountain, Bone Appetit (5.9) and Dust-in Bones (5.9).

August 26, 2013
Alden Pellett and Seth Maciejowski climbed Bushmaster in Smugglers' Notch on August 25, 2013.

August 23, 2013
Tim Farr, Alden Pellett and Andrea Charest added an airy third pitch to The Diagonal in August, 2013.

August 15, 2013
While most cliffs have been open for a while now. August 15th is the official end of the peregrine falcon nesting season. Everything is open- enjoy!

August 7, 2013
If you're heading to Marshfield Ledge, the initial jeep road has been substantially improved and is now pretty reasonable for a decently tall vehicle (like a Subaru or a pickup). There are good parking places and a turn around at the big sand pile about a half-mile up the road

August 1, 2013
Beta on Quartz Crack added and notes on a few missing hangers on Airyvata

July 15, 2013
The Bolton Quarry and Upper Upper peregrine closures have been lifted for the season. The quarry fledged 2 young, and the Bolton notch pair appears to have failed at their first nest site and then reclaimed the Upper Upper West cliff but didn't do anything there. We should know more about Smuggler’s and Marshfield this week or next...

June 22, 2013
Walking on Thin Air (5.6), near the Quartz Crack face in Smuggler's Notch, established by Matt Bressler and Tim Farr.

June 13, 2013
Remember what I posted on May 17th? Well, scratch that. Upper Upper West Bolton is now re-closed after a recent peregrine attack. Please avoid climbing up there for another month or so until the birds are on the other side of the nesting season.

May 3, 2013
Snap, Crackle, Pop (5.9), at Bone Mountain, established by Alden Pellet and Seth Maciejowski.

May 17, 2013
The peregrine falcons have decided not to nest at Upper Upper West Bolton this year. The closure has been lifted and climbing is permitted. Enjoy!

May 14, 2013
There are currently no closures up in Smuggler's Notch as the nest site has not been located. If you're climbing up there please be vigilant and if you're accosted by birds acting territorial, please retreat and let us know where they are. Thanks!

May 12, 2013
Marshfield's peregrine nesting site has been located. The climber's left side of the cliff is closed to climbing this year. The good 
news: High Grade Ledge and points right as now open!


May 5, 2013
Bungissima (5.11c), a direct finish to Bungasana at Upper West, established by Travis Peckham, Seth Maciejowski and Derrek Anderson.

May 3, 2013
Trillium (5.10c), at Upper West, established by Travis Peckham and Seth Maciejowski.

Route 108 over Smuggler's notch is opened to cars.


April 28, 2013

Here's an update from Margaret Fowle at the NWS on the status of peregrine falcon closures. As always, please respect.

1. Arrowhead (Milton) – pair present and likely incubating at the old common raven nest used in previous years (J Pennucci).

2. Bald Mt (W. Haven) – no known visit to-date.

3. Ball Mt (Jamaica) – pair present and favoring southern cliff area. Female is unbanded; male is banded (K Wohlfort).

4. Barnet Roadcut (Barnet) – pair is present and may be incubating.  Rte 5 pullout is closed (W & E Shedd).

5. Benson Ledges (Benson) – no peregrines seen on 4/5 (J Flewelling).

6. Bethel Quarry (Bethel) – suspect pair is present and may be incubating in the inactive part of quarry (K Wohlfort).

7. Bird Mt (Ira) – suspect pair is present and incubating (CJ & M Frankiewicz).

8. Bolton Notch – Upper Upper West (Bolton) – no confirmation of pair yet.  Cliff is posted.  (B Heiser, M Fowle).

9. Bolton Quarry (Bolton) – pair is present and incubating at the old raven nest.  Cliff is posted (T Peckham, M Fowle, M Johnson, D Katzman).

10. Bone Mt (Bolton) – no visit to-date.

11. Bristol Cliffs (Bristol) – pair present and appeared to be favoring the mid-cliff area (M Audy).

12. Brousseau Mt (Averill) – no known site visit to-date.

13. Checkerberry Ledge (Bakersfield) – no known site visit to-date.

14. Crystal Lake (Barton) – pair was not present in mid-March (E Valley).

15. Deer Leap (Bristol) – pair is present and appears to be incubating.  Cliff is posted (R Durand).

16. Eagle Mt (Milton) – pair present and defending the cliff (J Pennucci). 

17. Elephant Mt (Bristol) – no known site visit

18. Fairlee Palisades (Fairlee) – pair present and appears to be favoring a new site.  The male is new, as he is unbanded. The female is banded and may be the 13-yr-old originally from Cathedral Ledge near Conway NH.  (K Wohlfort).

19. Haystack Mt (Pawlet) – single falcon seen on 4/15 (B Drachman).

20. Hazens Notch (Lowell) – no known site visit.

21. Highgate Cliffs (Highgate Springs) – no known site visit.

22. Jobs Mt (Westmore) – no known site visit.

23. Maidstone/Willard Mt (Maidstone) – no falcons seen on 4/26 (P Emerson).

24. Mallett’s Bay (Colchester) – pair is back at the original cliff on the northern end of Malletts Bay and incubating in an old raven nest (J Pennucci).

25. Marshfield Mt (Marshfield) – pair present in late March, no incubation yet (R Schiff).

26. Mt. Horrid (Goshen) – single falcon seen 3/9 (B Flewelling).

27. Nebraska Notch (Underhill) – no known site visit (J Crooks).

28. Nichols Ledge (Woodbury) – pair present 3/30. Cliff-top is closed (M Gray & E Hayes).

29. Pond Mt (Wells) – pair present and incubating (B Drachman).

30. Quarry Hill (Pownal) – pair present (M Smithers).

31. Rattlesnake Pt (Salisbury) – no known site visit.

32. Red Rock (Hinesburg) – pair present on 4/8 (J LoCicero).

33. Sawyer Mt (Fairlee) – pair present and appeared to be favoring the 2011 eyrie. Female is unbanded (K Wohlfort).

34. Skitchewaug Mt (Springfield) – adult observed incubating at 2012 eyrie on 4/20 (K Wohlfort).

35. Smuggler’s Notch (Cambridge) – single falcon seen on 3/30 ( J York).

36. Snake Mt (Addison) – single bird seen on April 21.  Southern cliff top is posted (A Webbe).

37. Vermont Yankee (Vernon) – pair present and starting to spend time in the box (L Dewald, G Crowley).

38. Vulture Mt (Stockbridge) – single bird seen on 4/15 (B Beck).

39. Wallace Ledge (Castleton) – no confirmation of pair (M Droege).

40. Wheeler Mt (Barton) – no falcons seen on 3/24 (E Valley).

41. Whitcomb Quarry (Colchester) – pair present and appeared to be favoring an old raven nest (E Lazarus, B MacPherson).

42. White Rocks (Wallingford) – single bird seen near 2013 nesting area on 4/16 (S Wixsom).

 

Sites that are not scheduled to be checked in 2013:

Belvidere Mt Quarry (may be checked by Art Wolfe)

Brousseau Mt (may be checked by Celia Slason)


April 4, 2013
Bungasana (5.11c), at Upper West, established by Travis Peckham and Seth Maciejowski.

December 26, 2012
Piece of the chimney that fell off of the Easy Gully Buttress was found lying against the Backyard Boulder. Unfortunately its 
position effectively eliminates the boulder problems Thump and Forest Thump. The boulder must have been bouncing 4' to 6' in the air on the way down as trees with the tops snapped off are visible just up-slope.

December 18, 2012

Significant rockfall was reported in Smuggler's Notch between the routes Big Daddy Arete and The Brazilian. No word yet as to whether those routes or Beer Belly were affected, but beware as some of the bolts may have been damaged or destroyed. We'll know more next summer.

December 4, 2012
Conundrum (5.8), at Marshfield Ledges, established by Randy Garcia, John Sykes, and Mike Lee in October 2012.

October 29, 2012
Corporal Jigsore (5.10b) was established at The Carcass Crag by Seth Maciejowski and Dennis Delay.

September 15, 2012
Initial release of Updates page including many updates across the state. Of special interest are number of new routes done at  Upper West Bolton and Smuggler's Notch.